How did I find myself here?
In March 2023, I was sitting on my terrace in Sicily and thinking about where I should go next. April in the Mediterranean is tricky to plan around, as many places are still waking up from the winter and the weather is unpredictable. Motorcycle travel in Sardinia, a hard-to-reach island in the middle of the sea, was nowhere near the front of my mind. Thankfully, my friend Willem is a solid idea man, and sent me a random message along the lines of ‘Motorcycles? Sardinia? Easter?’. That was all the motivation I needed to make my decision. I booked the ferry from Palermo to Cagliari, ready for a new adventure filled with exhilarating turns and off-beat discoveries.
We rented a small house in the northeastern coast town of San Teodoro as our base of operations. The place was simple, with a sun-soaked terrace made for enjoying a healthy amount of Birra Ichnusa. Crucially, it had a proper table so we could unfold and examine our comically huge map of the island. Motorcycle travel in Sardinia encourages flexible planning, letting you choose a route based on which curves catch your eye.
Day 1: Establishing Base Camp
The Sardinian adventure began in earnest as I rolled off the ferry into Cagliari’s morning bustle. Making my way northward, I stuck to the island’s one major motorway, not wanting to spoil the good scenery just yet.
After settling into the house, I headed to the Olbia airport to pick up Willem. From there, we navigated to the rental shop where he’d pick up his bike. Unfortunately, Olbia was a peculiar maze of roundabouts, stop signs, and unwritten driving etiquette designed to confuse outsiders. After a few wrong turns and some creative navigation, we finally got Willem’s bike sorted. As we headed out of the city, my own bike creaked a sigh of relief to be free of the extra weight.
Mounted up and ready to explore, we made our way back to San Teodoro as the sun started to set. With the sun going down and cool air rushing past, the short ride built up our excitement for the week ahead. Back at the house, we opened the map and decided on the best direction to point our bikes the next morning.
Day 2: The Magic of the Emerald Coast
We headed north toward the famed Costa Smeralda (the emerald coast), and the roads immediately delivered on their reputation. We moved constantly between sweeping curves and high ridges with commanding views over the sea. There was a sharp contrast between the lush greens of the island foliage and the deep blue of the Mediterranean, bringing the moniker of the ’emerald coast’ to life before our eyes.
After a stretch of relatively uninteresting roads inland, we reached the village of Santa Teresa, which made it all worthwhile. We rode through a few typical village streets and turned down a small alleyway, when the view suddenly opened up over a stunning expanse of blue sea. It was one of those moments that makes you stop for a moment just to take it in.
Feeling the need for the water before driving back to base, we found the Spiaggia Monti Russu and picked our way down sandy trails to the waterside. The long, wild beach was completely abandoned, and we changed quickly before launching ourselves into the sea. The water was still cold after the long winter, but it was just the right medicine after a long day of riding in the sun.
Day 3: Wild Roads and Mountain Thrills
The next day, we started directly south along the coast in the direction of the SS125. By all accounts in the motorcycling guides, we were in for a legendary road. However, we were in for an unexpected highlight before we even reached its first kilometer. We passed a working marble quarry, its geometric sides and gleaming white blocks of stone studded with bizarre machinery. A bit random perhaps, but not something either of us had ever seen before. Naturally, we couldn’t help but to drive a bit closer for a few pictures.
From there, we finally joined the SS125, which climbed and twisted high up out of the valley below. This stretch was undeniably beautiful, but the day still had other surprises waiting for us. We decided to try a shortcut, detouring onto a wild, abandoned stretch of road between Talana and Villagrande Strisaili.
It turned out that this road had been long abandoned by the authorities and was slowly collapsing down the mountainside. There were large holes everywhere, and several points where hasty repairs were made after the road had completely fallen away. The feeling of the ground ready to give way beneath us was a rush of high adventure. Add in piles of rockfall and some wandering cows, and we had just the right amount of danger to make for an unforgettable ride.
After an espresso in Villagrande to toast our successful passage, we returned to more civilized country. The twisting, perfect asphalt of the SS198 carried us between picturesque villages as darkness began to fall. With the last light, we arrived at in Sorgono and found a pizzeria to refuel. Our recounting of the day’s travels over dinner even attracted the attention of some locals, who had several questions about how exactly we ended up here.
Day 4: An Easter Feast in Ancient Sardinia
We took an espresso in Fonni before ascending the Bruncu Spina, the second-highest mountain on the island. As we climbed, the ‘road’ slowly became nothing more than a dirt track covered with loose stones and snow. Just as I started to think about turning around, we reached an old mountain lodge, long-since abandoned. Unable to pass up an opportunity to explore, we went in through one of the broken windows in search of the history of the place, but found only molding furniture and shattered glass.
After the mountain climb, we needed to eat something substantial. We doubled back to a very local, rustic looking tavern we had passed at the foot of the mountain trail. Considering it was Easter Sunday, we weren’t sure what the menu might have in store for us. Sa cordula sarda arrived as the main dish, a traditional preparation of intestines that was certainly bizarre to our palates. Still, it made for a unique holiday meal.
From there, we descended slowly from the mountains all the way to the west coast, past the Fiume Tirso and its scenic crossing at Tadasuni. As the land flattened out, we took a break at the foot of Nuraghe Zuras, one of the thousands of Bronze Age structures scattered across Sardinia. I climbed to the top and looked out over the rural landscape, imagining what life here looked like thousands of years ago, when these towers were built.
When we finally reached our stay for the night, perched on the cliffs above Bosa, it was just in time for some well-deserved food and beer. Cold drink in hand, we toasted the fabulous west coast sunset. It was a perfect finale to a remarkable day.
Day 5: Coastline Cruising and Crystal Waters
The next day was all about the west coast, heading north on the SP49 to Alghero. The road winds along a high ridge above the sea, with many opportunities to stop and take in sweeping views. In several of these spots families had established camper vans, seemingly ready to stay for a long time. I had to admit a bit of jealousy, it was an incredible place to stay. The combination of rugged cliffs, wild coastal views, and hidden beaches made this stretch of road one of the highlights of our motorcycle travel in Sardinia.
Driving all day while looking at the sea gave us an inevitable pull to find a place to swim. We marked Spiaggia della Pelosa, at the island’s very northwest edge, and headed off from Alghero. The countryside here was mostly industrialized, which was a bit of a letdown after the natural beauty we’d been experiencing. However, I suppose it’s unreasonable to expect limitless perfection.
The beach and peninsula, though, was Sardinia back in top form. The water was a crystal clear blue unlike anything I’d ever seen. After refreshing ourselves, we made our way back to San Teodoro through the rural villages and cork forests of the northern interior on the SS127. In charming fashion, we were blocked a few times by flocks of sheep as watchful dogs herded them forwards.
Day 6: A Transition back to Solo Travel
The next day, we finally looked into our own backyard at Spiaggia Porto Taverna, a hundred metres from the house. We had to laugh as we arrived on the beach and saw views to rival the best of the island. It’s often true that we overlook a lot of beauty close to home while looking for it further away. The silhouettes of Isola Tavolara and Isola Molara rising from the sea made an idyllic backdrop as we enjoyed a final coffee before Willem caught his flight out of Olbia.
Solo again, I still had a couple of days to see the parts of Sardinia that had so far been left out. I packed up the rest of my things, bid our home base goodbye, and set a course directly to the southwest. The history of the Nuraghe had captured my imagination, so I made sure my route connected with the UNESCO site of Su Nuraxi di Barumini so that I could see the grandest one of them all. The massive Bronze Age complex did not disappoint, with its labyrinth of ancient buildings standing as a testament to the sophistication of the ancient Sardinian civilization.
With apologies to the inhabitants of the region, nothing stands out in my memory after leaving the Nuraghe behind. After the intense riding of the past days, my brain was likely grateful to switch off with some relaxed cruising. My destination was the tiny islet of Sant’Antioco off the extreme southwest corner of Sardinia. Evening fell as I arrived, and I walked the quiet streets in a moment of reflection, with the last day of this adventure awaiting me in the morning.
Day 7: The South Coast and a Final Farewell
My final day began with a circumnavigation of the tiny islet. The roads were fittingly quaint, making for interesting riding through fields of golden flowers and over rolling hills dotted with fruit trees. After an espresso on the beach at Maladroxia, I was warmed up and ready for the main event: the southern coastal road SP71.
This winding track traces the southern coast. It roams down to the sea and then back up through twisting hillsides, on repeat. At nearly all times, the road is angled just right to offer views stretching as far as the eye can see along the rocky shores. A fitting end to an amazing road trip, this drive was one of simple serenity rather than high-octane thrill.
At one point, the lighthouse of Capo Malfatano appeared ahead in the distance, on a point jutting into the sea. I felt a sudden urge to try and make it there. It required a good amount of work through sketchy off-road trails, but eventually I found myself alone under the ancient tower with a 360-degree panorama unlike many I’d ever seen.
Finally, after one last swim at yet another wild beach, I was ready for the final kilometers back to Cagliari. By evening, I boarded the ferry bound for Napoli, feeling some instant nostalgia as the boat shoved off and Sardinia faded away into the distance.
Final Reflections: More than Dirt and Asphalt
This motorcycle journey through Sardinia reaffirmed my belief in travel as discovery. It offered diverse landscapes, hidden cultural insights, adrenaline-filled curves, and personal reflections. It also richly rewarded us when we decided to stray off the beaten path. Being on two wheels offered us unmatched freedom to explore island’s rugged beauty, providing a deep perspective no car driver could ever hope to reach.
Sardinia, for the motorcyclist, is a land of beautiful, joy-filled roads. Whether they were covered with pristine asphalt or crumbling rocks and dirt, they provided genuine connection to the land and the setting for unforgettable adventures with a great friend. From the emerald waters of the Costa Smeralda, to the mountain villages frozen in time, to the ancient Nuraghe rising above the landscape, every moment contributed to an experience that will stick with me forever.
“You do not need a therapist if you own a motorcycle, any kind of motorcycle!”
Dan Aykroyd